I try and give excellent customer service

A friend came to me and asked me to sell something for him. I did and described the item very strictly. I don't like to give any buyers any surprises. So, a guy bought the the item. He is new to eBay. When he got the item, he complained that it was faded. It wasn't, when I sold it to him. I asked my friend, who I had sold it for, and he said to give the buyer his email address, and they would work it out. After all, I am just the middle man. I did this, and the buyer went ballistic. He said that he wouldn't deal with anyone but me. Consequently, I think he will leave negative feedback. How can I deal with this guy? After all, it is not my money that is in play here, since I was just the go between. This is why we sellers need to be able to give negative feedback to buyers. NEVER escalate a case as the seller. NEVER. That signals the ebay bots to close it in the favor of the buyer. Just tell him return for refund and that once you verify your seller's mark, you will refund. Period. If you get something other than what you shipped, come back here. We'll walk you through it.

How to apply Screen Protector for your Devices?

Tips for Applying the Screen Protector

• First and foremost, follow your chosen screen protector's instructions. (You may find instruction video in our listing mostly)

• Find a clean place for your project and give yourself some time for your project (at least 10 minutes of applying and reapplying the film). You don't want to be smoking or cleaning your chalkboard right above your tablet while doing this, obviously. I've previously seen advice about applying the screen protector in the bathroom after taking a bath because the steam in the air would prevent dust from settling between your tablet and the screen protector. In my experience, this is just not so (maybe I need to take steamier showers, however).

• Clean your tablet or smartphone screen. use your own microfiber cloth to get your smartphone or tablet as clean as you can get it.

• Align the protector at the top or bottom of your device (it doesn't really matter, but your instructions may have a preference), using the features on your device--the camera or home button--as a guide. Make sure both corners are level before pressing down.

• ANY dusts = BUBBLES

• Use a credit card or the card that came with your package to push bubbles out.

• If there are giant bubbles, use a piece of tape to pull up one corner of the film and reapply it. Just make sure you don't touch the bottom of the sticky side of the film (otherwise you will be trapping little dust or particles permanently to the screen protector)!

RPG Lover

Games are the most epic arts of all times. In special, I love RPG genre, not just this, I believe that the best way to make a trip around your mind and get satisfaction with this, is playing a good RPG game.

I'm a collector, and through this site, I'm filling my colection with many rare and conserved itens.

I have a greater simpathy by Snes, but not only it, I love the old generation of the games as the new generation too, I believe that epic arts, epic titles, comes from the past and the present, the great trick is to know how to search and where to find the right titles and the great and notable series too. The same for the less popular, but that holds a great content, in the same proportion of the most popular titles.

And I can't go away without say about my love by Final Fantasy, in my opnion, one of the most important and beautiful things already invented.

Samsung Cellular Batteries Compatibility List

This guide is for those who are not sure which Samsung Battery works for their cell phone.

Samsung AB463651BA works with Samsung Sunburst A697, Samsung A637, Samsung M330, Highnote M630, Samsung Comeback T559, Katalyst T739, Messager R450, Rant M540, Samsung Exclaim M550, Samsung Messager 2 R560, Samsung Mantra M340

Samsung AB533640BA works with SGH-T339, SPH-M310, Slash SGH-T336, SGH-T519, Trace

Samsung EB484659VA works for Samsung D600, T589, Gravity Smart, Gravity Touch 2, Samsung GT2

Samsung AB653039CA works for Samsung A777. SGH-A777. Magnet SGH-A257. SGH-A177. T659. SGH-t659. T639. SGH-T639. Trill R520. SCH-R520

Samsung EB575152VA works for Samsung Captivate i897, Epic 4G, Vibrant T959

Samsung EB504465VA works for Galaxy Prevail M820, Intercept M910, Transform M920, SPH-M920, Galaxy Indulge R910, Replenish M580, Galaxy Gio S5660, Craft SCH-R900, Sidekick 4G

How to Choose A Bill Counter

If you're shopping around for a bill counter, you probably want to get something that is going to help you get the job done for the best value possible. There are literally dozens of different bill counters out there, so what are the key features you should look for? Here are a few questions you may want to ask yourself combined with features you will probably find while shopping.

How many bills are you counting per day? Bill counters range in capabilities and capacities. Most entry level bill counters can handle 600-900 bills per minute. Mid-range bill counters can handle 900 to 1200 bills per minute and commercial "high" range counters can handle 1200+ bills per minute. Entry-level users may be kiosks, small clubs and small retailers. High-level users include banks and large businesses.

Where will you be using your bill counter? Some bill counters are designed for use on a desk or table and are not ideal for moving around. Other bill counters include built-in handles for added portability. If you plan on using your bill counter on the road, you may even want to consider a battery-powered unit.

Do you need counterfeit detection? While all money counting machines count bills, some include the value of a counterfeit detector. These detectors range from ultraviolet (UV) to magnetic (MG) scanning. Some include both, which are labeled as UV / MG. These types of bill counters scan bills on the fly and typically alert the user both audibly and visibly when a counterfeit bill is detected, typically stopping the machine. The UV sensor checks for a UV strip in a legitimate banknote and the MG sensor checks for the presence of magnetic ink. These counterfeit detection tools will catch the majority of counterfeit bills.

Do you need a total amount of bills or the value of the bills? Ninety-percent of the bill counters out there are designed to provide the operator with a total number of bills, not a total value. If you need the total number and the value of the bills, you will need what's known as a bill discriminator.

Do bill counters only handle US banknotes? Most bill counters can handle other country's bills as long as the bill's size fits within the bill counter's minimum and maximum specifications. Many people use bill counters to count coupons, tickets and other paper as well.

Common Bill Counter Features

Adding Mode – Bill counters will often reset after a new stack of bills is inserted. If adding mode is enabled, the bill counter will continue counting bills, even when new stacks are put in the machine.

Batch Counting – Many bill counters will batch count. Simply specify the number you need and the bill counter will stop after the desired amount of bills have been counted. This is especially nice when separating stacks of bills.

Dust Cover – Some bill counters have a plastic dust cover that can be closed during the bill counting process. This helps prevent dust from becoming airborne while the machine is active.

Error Detection – If your bill counter has error detection, it will typically let you know if too many bills have been pulled through, if a half note has been detected or if a chain note has been detected.

External Display – Some bill counters offer an included or optional LED display. This is designed to provide customers an easy view of the total number of bills being counted.

Filtration System – Some high-end bill counters come with a filtration system designed to help remove dust found on most bills. This is especially ideal for people with allergies or who may become agitated by an increase of particulates in the air.

Hopper Capacity – The hopper capacity is how many bills the machine can hold. The total number of new bills is usually cut in half when used bills are counted. This means a machine that can handle 200 new bills will usually only be able to handle 100 used bills.

Cleaning & Restoring Glass Lamp Shades

So you have found a wonderful, beautiful, but grimy glass shade. Before you begin cleaning place a nice fluffy terry cloth towel in the bottom of your sink---just in case. And, as this may not be as easy as you thought, some big rubber gloves.

**[Please be aware that these tips can only used on clear or all white glass. If you have glass with a hand-painted or decal decoration don't even try these except for, maybe, Step One.]

Step One: Begin the process by cleaning the surfaces by hand with warm water, sponge and dishing washing liquid soap. (No, not dishwasher soap.) Set it aside and let it drip dry.

If the glass did not come out whistle clean, check out the list below.

* Old price tags marks (Goo Gone, WD40, Rubber Cement Thinner, etc.).

* Paint spots (Goof Off, paint thinner, or a brand new razor blade.)

* Yellowish caste to entire shade (From years of cigarette smoke.) Soak in a diluted solution of ammonia and water, overnight.

Alternate method:

* Or, if you are in a rush, apply the ammonia full strength from a spray bottle---you'll need good ventilation for this---directly on to glass and watch the solidified smoke slowly ooze off.

* Small marks from permanent markers (This is a trial-and-error process): Look under the kitchen sink, in the bathroom, your spouse's workshop for a variety of solvents to try.

* If all else fails, use old-style gritty powdered cleanser and a sponge. Make a paste on a corner of the sponge. Start gently to gauge how hard to rub.

* If you are not ready for the cleanser, rub toothpaste with a Q-Tip with no water, except to rinse.

Note: Any glass with a matte, sand blasted or acid etched surface can be cleaned vigorously with the cleanser method.

GE 6L6GC (6L6) Amplitrex Tested amp amplifier tube

Tube matching is one of the most misunderstood and abused aspects of tube testing. The fact is, a good number of tubes advertised as "matched" really are not matched at all. The problem? a lack of understanding, misinformation, and the use of inadequate test equipment.

Some truths and misconceptions on tube matching:

1/ Are tubes matched if they have the same construction? NO.

2/ Are tubes matched if they have the same codes? NO.

3/ Are tubes matched if they came from the same amp? NO.

4/ Are tubes matched if they are the same type? NO.

5/ Are tubes matched if they have close or the same Gm or emissions readings? NO.

6/ Are power tubes matched if the readings are within 5 - 10% when tested for mA at the correct voltages? YES!

7/ Are preamp tubes matched if the mu (gain) readings are close or the same when tested at the correct voltages? YES!

READ ON............................

About Testing:

Old service testers come in primarily two categories: Emissions and Transconductance (Gm) types.

Examples of the Emissions types are the Sencore Mighty Mite series, some Heathkit and Eico's, and some B&K's, to name a few. These testers are ok for hobby or home use to sort out bad tubes, but nothing more. Some were used in the field as service testers, but I will say no more about them.

Transconductance (Gm) testers such as the TV7's, Hickoks, Jacksons, Triplett, B&K, (there are too many to list here) are service testers designed to give a technician, serviceman or military personel the ability to diagnose problem tubes in circuits and used as an aid in trouble shooting. Transconductance (Gm) is easier to measure than the actual gain (how much a tube is actually amplifying). So transconductance became widely used in service testers, and thus has been generally accepted as a reasonable test for "quality". Only a few are able to measure mA (plate current draw) to match power tubes, but the voltages are far too low to be of any use. But contrary to popular belief, these testers cannot measure the actual output of a tube for the following reasons:

- The ACTUAL output of a tube is measured in "mu" which also called "gain" or "amplification factor".

- To calculate mu, you must multiply the transconductance (or Gm) by the plate resistance (Rp) so "mu = Rp x Gm".

- So, the transconductance (Gm) is related to the mu but it is NOT the actual mu.

- Because of the relationship between Gm and mu, and because it is easier to measure, it was widely accepted as a suitable test for quality.

In the "old" days, tester manufacturers were bound by patent laws and many different approaches were used to measure transconductance. Things got very confusing and manufacturers competed for a technicians business. The end result was that for decades we had little choice but work around the limitations of transconductance. Despite claims of the abilty to match tubes with these testers, the result was that the tubes were not really matched at all. Those old service testers did NOT apply voltages high enough to match those found in everyday circuits and manufacturer tube data sheets! But what they did well was give a very good estimation of tube quality and sorted out gassy and shorted tubes.

Then there are the modern units. New ones such as the Amplitrex, Maxi Preamp and the MaxiMatcher are much more reliable and use "real world" voltages and were designed for tube evaluation suitable for sellers for retail use. The old service testers simply cannot compete with the new technology. Modern testers such as the Amplitrex and MaxiMatcher have changed things. We can now properly match power tubes with the correct tests at the correct voltages.

Power (output) tubes are matched by mA (curent draw), NOT transconductance (Gm). Because this is what matters in a power tube. So why would you match tubes by Gm when it has nothing to do with whether or not a tube will bias properly in you amp?? It really doesn't matter what type of biasing circuit your amp has; The closer the mA, the easier they will match, the better they will sound, and the longer they will last!

For preamp tubes, matching by Mu (gain) is best, because transconductance is NOT the output! (as demonstrated above you must measure the Rp and the Gm to calculate the output). But because transconductance is PART of the picture, it was used to give an indication of tube quality; nothing more, nothing less. So now that we have modern testers such as the Amplitrex and Maxi Preamp to measure the actual Gain (how much the tube is actually amplifying) we now have a better understanding of what the preamp tube is actually doing in the circuit!

There is a school of thought that believes that tube transconductance (gm) "tracks" or follows the mA (plate current) and the gain (output). Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Matching by Gm, even at the right voltages, is simply NOT a reliable way to match tubes!

"So my tubes are properly tested; when are they matched"? Well, that varies with opinions. For power tubes, I think that most agree that mA (plate current) readings should be with 5 - 10% to be considered matched. Phase inverters have a very important role to play in a circuit, and it is probably better to have dual triodes that are strong and balanced for best performance. For other preamp tubes, it really is not that important because biasing is not an issue, but tube gurus with high end gear usually like matches that are very close; it really only matters how "perfect" you want to be. But unmatched preamp tubes are generally not a problem for circuits to handle.

In Summary:

- the old service testers are great for giving an indication of tube quality and finding shorted or gassy tubes. I believe they are fine if you are willing to accept their limitations. Only a very few can test for mA (plate current) but the voltages are far too low to be of any use. None test for tube gain (mu).

- when possible, preamp tubes are best matched by gain (mu) on modern testers such as the Amplitrex or Maxi Preamp.

- Power tubes should only be matched by mA (current draw) at the correct voltages such as on a Maximatcher or Amplitrex. Or buy Factory Matched tubes from a reputable dealer.

- When tested at "real world" voltages on testers such as the Amplitrex or Maxi series, readings are usually lower than those obtained on the old service testers.

- Tubes "matched" on the old service testers usually aren't matched at all when tested at the correct voltages on modern testers such as the Amplitrex.

It is my experience that finding vintage matched power tubes is very difficult and they have become quite rare. You need piles of tubes of the same construction to find actual matches. The odds of that are quite remote. But don't be fooled! I have seen many sellers advertising "matched" tubes because they look the same or have the same codes....Hmmmm....